“Directly in front of us, as though engaged in some avant-garde stage performance, a Brazilian surfer dropped onto a wave. He wobbled in the barrel for a few seconds before being pitched into the air backward; the effect was of a bowling pin blown off a balance beam by a fire hose. We saw his board rocket into the sky, and the flash of a leg that looked like it was bent in the wrong direction. ‘There’s a scenario,’ Miller said. ‘A bad one.’ “
From: The Wave: In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks and Giants of the Ocean by Susan Casey
Read: While sitting in the waiting room of a car wash in Coconut Grove that advertises free popcorn. There was none, but then, I’ve never had any use for popcorn before noon.
